1	Measuring Waves Accurately
2	Why Measure Waves? Critical Factor for Coastal Region Beaches … summer fun, winter destruction Coastal economy Safety Shipping & Boating: ocean routes, coastal lanes Coastal Destruction: storm surges, tsunamis Coastal and Offshore Engineering Shore Protection, Structures: design, survival Mechanism for restoring natural equilibrium Energy Source: Wave & Tidal Power
3	ADCP Waves Array
4	Improved Results
5	Results from ADCP Waves Array Accurate and well-resolved wave directional analysis like a spatial array of sensors Direct measurement of surface variation like a surface-following device Easier deployment of a single location, bottom-mounted instrument Measurements of surface-layer currents that can distort the wave field Current velocity profiles through the water column Water depth time series
6	ADCP Hardware
7	Directional Analysis Each near-surface depth cell along the ADCP’s 4 beams can act as a wave field sensor -- measuring wave orbital variability Data set for the wave analysis matches an array of surface and near-surface sensors dispersed in space This spatial network of measurements permits more complete results compared with older wave measurement methods
8	Convenient Integrated Package
9	Place in Wave World A continuum exists for traditional wave gauging methods that output directional resolution Triplet, Small Array------------------------------Large Array ADCP Waves Array sits between the small array and the large array … and its position moves to left or right More like a small array: for lower frequencies, shallower water More like a large array: for higher frequencies, deeper water
10	Waves Spectrogram
11	Polar Plot of Frequency-Direction Spectrum
12	Take Home Information ADCP Waves Array applies acoustic profiling technology to measuring waves AND current profiles with ONE device (at the same time) Analysis considers an array-type data set (from single bottom-mounted instrument) Advantages cf. traditional wave-gauging System trade-off: Convenience in field, Improved directional resolution Detects high frequencies; avoids potential bias due to currents Results Time series of well-resolved frequency-direction spectra Directional and non-directional* waves statistics *with independent confirmation